Neil Rankin is becoming something of a staple on the London restaurant scene. The chef made waves first as Head Chef at Pitt Cue Co. in Soho and at John Salt in Islington, before teaming up with Noble Inns to launch Smokehouse, the UK’s only real wood BBQ restaurant (soon to be followed by a second branch in Chiswick).
Now the chef is bringing his creative talents to Moorgate, with the opening of Bad Egg in City Point.
Rankin cites the Chicago diners and modern fusion restaurants as influences on Bad Egg’s menu, with flavours coming from Mexico, India, Malaysia and Korea. Yet, the menu is deceptively un-fancy, with burgers, tacos, hashes and fried belly pork ribs sitting alongside slaws, salads and – yes – lots of eggs.
However, one aspect of the menu is conspicuous by its absence – dessert. Rankin himself notes that the decision may be ‘confrontational’, but the aim is to put savoury dishes centre stage and not spread their menu (and the energy of their chefs) too thin. If you fancy something sweet with a kick, why not order a Misplaced American Arrogance (Ilegal Mezcal, Cocchi Americano and Mesquite Peach) or a Argy Bhaji (Kamm & Sons, curried apricot and ginger beer) from the cocktail menu?*
The breakfast menu is composed of delicious standards with a twist: a Full English Breakfast can be shared between two people with a loaf of Sourdough; bacon and egg baps are offered alongside fried chicken, peanut butter and jam; scrambled egg can be enjoyed in tortillas with chipotle, salsa and guacamole.
True to the diner vibe, coffee comes filtered and with free refills, making it dangerously tempting to hang around in one of the comfortable leather booths until it’s time for lunch!
With its cool interiors, interesting menu and friendly staff, Bad Egg is a welcome alternative to the parade of chains in the area. Just be sure to turn up early if you’re hungry; the restaurant is relatively small and doesn’t take bookings.
*Since writing this review, Bad Egg has added desserts to their menu! To use the words of Neil Rankin himself, they caved.
Bad Egg is at Unit 1b, City Point, 1 Ropemaker St, London EC2Y 9AW. Breakfast is served from 8am – 11am. For the latest information, follow them on Twitter @badoeuf.